UNIT 3 :MOTIF AND PATTERN DESIGN PROCESS
Key unit competence: To be able to design the various motifs,
patterns from different sources ofinspiration
Introductory Activity
1. Observe patterns and motif designs above and define the following
terms:
• motifs
• patterns.
2. Give the materials and tools used in motif and pattern making.3. Create different motifs and patterns.
3.1.Definition of concepts
Activity 3.1
1. Discuss any three basic tools used in pattern making.
2. Explain categories of regular pattern
• Pattern
Pattern making is an art of putting shapes or group of shapes in a repeated
manner to cover an area. Patterns can make in any pictorial composition:
mosaic, collage, drawing, painting, printing and even through simple cut and paste.
• Motif
A motif is an element of a pattern, image or shape, which is required in
design. It may repeat in a design or composition, often many times or mayjust occur once in a work.
Design process is the activity of making a motif.
Motif can be created from simple shape. They can be regular or irregular.
Regular shapes include circle, triangle, square, oval, and others. Shapes
can be combined to form patterns.
Categories of pattern
Regular repeat: pattern displays the same motifs repeatedly on a given
surface. Some regular repeat patterns include:
Full repeat: The motif is repeated regularly in each square/rectangular space.
Full-drop repeat: in this pattern formation, each subsequent space skippedas the motif is rendered as shown below:
Half drop repeat: A grid is made such that the subsequent row of squares
drop half way as shown below.
Alternate repeat: In regular repeat patterns, the motif used can alternate
repeat patterns. In alternate repeats, there can be two motifs, which combineto form a repeat as shown below.
Irregular repeat patterns: the motifs are arranged in many styles of the
surface. This means that there is no specific flow even through the samemotif has used to create a pattern. This again called random repeat.
List of pattern making tools and their uses for design:
The tools required for pattern making are given below, basing on order oftheir usage
• Measuring devices
• Drafting devices
• Marking devices
• Cutting devices
• Sewing devices• Finishing or pressing devices
Measuring devices:
Measuring tools are the most essential tools in making a pattern. The key to
success in garment construction lies in taking accurate measurements of the
subject and by using the appropriate tool for pattern making.
• Measuring tape: It is indispensable for taking body measurements.
It is 152 cm or 60″ long with measurements on both sides. One of its
ends is made of metal having 3″ length and the other is made of the
same metal having 1/2″ length. The side with the 1/2″ length used
for measuring a circular area, while the side with 3″ length used for a
vertical area.
• Ruler: It is the best device for taking long straight measurements. It is
mostly used for checking grain lines and marking hems.
Drafting devices:
Drafting equipment are for making paper patterns. This is the second stage
of pattern making. Using the measurements taken, the drafting is carried out
according to the design of a garment. The following drafting equipment is
used:
• Compass: It mainly used for making a curve for umbrella cloth.
• Brush: A brush is used on Milton cloth to rub the mistakes while drafting.
• Paper: Is for drafting by placing on the drafting table. While using brown
paper, a grain line should follow.
• Pencil: For marking on brown paper.
• Rubber: It is used for deleting mistakes. Good quality rubber, which
does not leave black lines, should select.
• Red and blue pencils: Are used for marking on fold (red line) and
grain line (blue arrow).
Marking Devices:
Marking devices are used for transferring the details of the paper draft to the
fabric.
• Design ’s chalk: It is made up of china clay and is available in different
colors. It is used for marking the paper patterns on the cloth. Alterations
and construction markings are drawn using tailors’ chalk.
• Chalk in pencil form: This is used like a pencil and it marks thinaccurate lines. This is used for marking pleats, darts and buttonholes.
Cutting Devices:
Cutting devices/equipments should be selected and used with maximum
accuracy. A slight change in cut results in huge fitting problems. These tools
must be selected and maintained properly in order to use them effectively.
• Cutting table and cutting board: A cutting table is 6′ long, 4′ wide
and 3′ height. People working in a standing position use the table and
people who work seated use a cutting board. A cutting board should be
6″ height.
• A pair of scissors: These are used for cutting garments. They are
7–10″ in length.
• Paper cutting scissors: These are small scissors available in various
sizes and meant for cutting paper.
Sewing Devices:
Sewing can be carried out either manually or by a machine. For hand sewing,
the following are required:
• Needles: These needles come in denominations of a 0 to 12 numbers.
Based on the thickness of cloth, the needle number is used.
• Pins: Pins are used for fixing the patterns on the cloth. They come in
different colors.
• Pincushion: It is used for keeping pins together.
Finishing or Pressing Devices:
The following equipment are needed for pressing:
• Iron: A good brand with after sale services should be chosen. A steam
iron with a thermostat regulator is preferred.
• Ironing board: For ironing clothes, a table or ironing board can be
used. An ironing board is 36″ long and 12″ wide. Six inches are left on
its right side to keep the iron box. The left side of the board is angular
and is suitable for ironing dart edges and sleeve darts while stitching.
The table or ironing board should have proper stuffed backing.
Application activity 3.1
• Differentiate a motif from a pattern• Explain the importance of rulers in pattern making
3.2.Process of making motif and pattern
Activity 3.2
Describe any two motifs styles
The process of making motifs and pattern depend on the motifs styles.
Motifs styles
There are different styles that can be used to create both regular and irregular
repeat patterns.
• Linear patterns. In linear patterns, zig-zags, wavy, straight or circularlines can be used to create repeat patterns.
• Numeral forms. When the numerals produce interesting patterns, they
lose their identities and become beautiful motifs.
• Real objects can be used as stencils or templates to make patterns.
They should be arranged in the desired pattern and then colour appliedas desired.
• Letter forms. Using letterforms as motifs, both low case and upper
case can produce interesting designs.
Making patterns using stencils and templates.
Cut out stencils and templates are used in pattern making. The pattern
produced can either be positive.
Negative design: In the negative pattern, the cut out shape of a template iscoloured from the outside. This makes a positive design.
Application activity 3,2
• By drawing, create any two patterns.
• With illustration, differentiate an alternate pattern from full repeat pattern.End unit assessment 3
1. Give the name of the smallest unit of a pattern
2. Explain the following terms:
• Regular pattern
• Irregular pattern3. Create a pattern for each style.