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Key unit competency

To be able to explain and make different types of seams.

Learning objectives

After studying this topic, I should be able to:

• Explain types and functions of seams.

• Classify seaming techniques.

• Make and repair clothes using appropriate seaming techniques.

Introduction

In the previous unit, you learnt about the various fabrics that are used in clothes making. Observe the pictures in Fig. 4.1 below.

Can you identify the fabrics? Say what has been done to each fabric? Are they different? How? Why are they important? Answers to the above questions should give you an idea of what you will learn in this topic.

Note: When dealing with seams, some abbreviations are commonly used. They include:

•WS – refers to wrong side of a garment.

•RS – refers to the right side of a garment.

•FL – refers to fitting line.

•LS – refers to left side of a garment.

Money matters!

Manufacture of clothing can be a good source of income. Reasonable investments in the industry can lead to major economic developments in our country.

4.1 Types and functions of seams

The clothes we wear have been made from separate pieces of fabric joined together. The point where these pieces of fabric are joining together at is what makes a seam. In general, a seam is the line where two pieces of fabric are sewn together in a garment or any other article. There are many purposes for different types of seams beyond simply holding two pieces of garment together. For example, seams can be used for fashion and decoration, as well as function and finishing. Some fabrics require special types of seams to help with handling. Some patterns as well require certain sewing seam types for their construction and fit.The method of seaming used determines the appearance of the garment.

Activity 4.1: Research Activity

Go to the library and find out from textbooks the various types of seams. What are their functions? You can as well find out about these from the internet. Write a report and share with the rest of your class members.

The facts

The most common types of seams are:

•Open-neated seam

•French seam

•Overlaid seam

•Machine-fell seam (also knwn as double-stitched seam)

(a) Open seam

This is also known as the basic seam. It is the most commonly used type of seam in sewing.

When a seam is stitched only once and the raw edges are pressed apart, it is called an open seam. This type of seam is mostly used in medium and heavy weight materials where a fl at finish is desired. Examples are the seams of skirts, or the under-arm and shoulder joinings of woolen dresses.

Working an open neatend seam

• Place together the two pieces to be joined with right sides facing each other, match the fitting lines and raw edges.

• Pin and tack along the stitching line.

• Remove the pins and machine along the fitting line.

• Remove tacking and finish off threads.

• Trim the seam allowance to about 1cm and neaten the raw edges using edge stitching.

• Press open.

Note: We can do finishing to open-neated seams in various ways as shown below.

(b) French seams

French seams have the edges doubled in, hence no raw edges show. These types of seams are usually used on lightweight fabrics because they are strong but inconspicuous. They are narrow and completely encase the raw edges of your fabric. On top of this, French seams add a very professional looking touch to your garment. They are mostly used on blouses, infants’ clothes and lingerie.

Working a french seam

• Place together the two pieces with the wrong sides facing each other and the right sides outside.

• Tack matching raw edges and fitting lines 6 mm above the fitting line.

• Machine along the tacking, finish off threads ends and remove tacking.

• Trim turning to 3 mm and press open.

• Turn the work to wrong side and knife-edge.

• With the right sides together, pin and tuck along the fitting lines, enclosing raw edges completely.

• Remove pins and stitch along the tacking.

• Remove tacking and press the seam over towards the back of the garment.

Characteristics of a good French seam

• The width should be even.

• It should be of correct width.

• It should have a knife-edge.

(c) Overlaid seams

This is a decorative seam with the stitching only visible on the right side. Braids, frills and loops may be stitched between the layers of material to give a decorative effect. It is particularly useful on yokes, bands and other garments with difficult shapes.

Working an overlaid seam

• Take two pieces of fabrics and mark the top part as overlay and the other part as underlay

.• Take the overlay and fold it on the stitching line to the wrong side and press.

• Place the overlay on the underlay matching the stitching line, tack in place.

• Machine stitch close to the fold through the three layers of fabric.

• Remove the tacking and press fl at.

• Remove the tacking.

• Turn on the wrong side and trim the edges to reduce bulk.

• Neaten the raw edges by use of lop stitches or overcasting stitches.

• Press the seam flat.

(d) Machine-fell seams (double-stitched seam)

Machine-fell seams are commonly referred to as fl at-felled seams. These usually appear on the outside of a garment. It usually appears as a pair of stitch lines on the right side of the garment, while on the wrong side, it looks clean and tidy without raw seam edges. Such seams are commonly used on jeans (denim wear) and men’s dress shirts.

Working a machine-fell seam

• Place the two pieces of material or fabric together with the W.S facing and fitting lines matching.

• Pin and tack along the fitting line.

• Remove pins and machine stitch along the fitting line.

• Remove tacking and press the seam open.

• Trim the front side to 1.5 cm and the back seam allowance to 0.5 cm.

• Make a small turning on the front seam allowance of about 0.2 cm. Fold it over the back seam allowance.

• Pin, tack and remove the pins in position and machine stitch 0.1 cm from the fold.

• Iron the seam.

Activity 4.2

Try identifying the above seams on the sample of clothes you have in your class. Consult with your teacher or other learners in case you have a problem.

4.2 Techniques of seams

Activity 4.3

1. Visit a nearby tailoring shop or a clothing Export Processing zone. Find out:

• The equipment being used for making the different types of garments.

• The types of seams being used for the different types of garments.

• How the seams are being made.

2. You can practice making the seams with guidance of the tailor.

The facts

Seams are made using the sewing machine. Look at the diagram below. Can you recall what it is?

Name the various parts of the machine. Come up with a table on the parts and their uses.

Though seams can basically be classified as conspicuous/exposed (for example, double stitched (machine fell) and overlaid) or non-conspicuous/enclosed (French and open) various seaming techniques can be used to make the seams. They include:

• Straight seaming - they are worked on a straight line as commonly used in side seam or underarm seams.

• Corner seaming - some shaped pieces or household articles take the shape of a right angle necessitating the working of corner seams.

• Curved seaming - they are worked on curved edges such as the neckline or other shaped pieces with convex on concave edges.

• Princess seaming - these are variations of darts useful for seaming fitted garment made of shaped pieces.

(a) Straight seams

A straight seam is seam that is in straight line. Steps to follow when making straight seams include:

Step 1

• Lay two pieces of fabric to be joined with the right sides together. Align the edges you would like to sew. Push out all the wrinkles and smooth the fabric fl a t .

• Starting at one end of the seam, match the corners and pin them together.

Step 2

Work your way down the edge to be sewn pining the two pieces of fabric together.

Note: The closer the pins are, the more stable the fabric will be. However, you will have to stop to remove each pin as you sew. If you’re just getting started, use a pin every inch or two of fabric.

Step 3

• Make sure the settings on your sewing machine are set to sew a straight stitch.

• Slide the corner of your fabric into the sewing machine, directly under the hole in the presser foot.

• Align the edge of your fabric with the edge of the presser foot.

Note: This will act as a guide while you sew. It will help you keep your seam straight. In this case, it will leave a quarter-inch seam allowance. You can use a different guide if you would like to.

.• Lower the presser foot using the presser foot lever.

Step 4

• Engage your backstitch function.

Note:Backstitch functions vary widely between machines and can come in the form of buttons, levers, and knobs. See your sewing machine manual for instructions on your backstitch function.

• Depress the pedal slowly. This will start the sewing machine sewing backwards.

• Sew two or three stitches backwards.

• Release the pedal.

• Release your backstitch function.

Step 5

• Depress the pedal and sew slowly forward, guiding the fabric with your hands as you go.

Note: When guiding the fabric through a sewing machine, you should not be pushing or pulling. The machine will feed the fabric in at the right speed. Your job is merely to guide the fabric so the seam remains straight.

• Keep the fabric aligned to the edge of the presser foot as you sew.

• Stop before you reach each pin. Pull the pins out, being careful not to misalign the fabric.

Step 6

• When you come to the end of your seam, engage the backstitch function.

• Sew two or three stitches backwards.

• Release the backstitch function and sew forward off the fabric.

• Turn the balance wheel until the needle is up.

Step 7

Lift the presser foot up.

Step 8

• Pull the fabric out of the sewing machine.

Note: The threads are still attached to the sewing machine, so be careful not to pull too far or tangle the threads.

• Clip the threads as close to the fabric as possible.

• Turn your seam right side out and admire your work.

Activity 4.4

Practice doing the straight seam as described above using the sewing machine.

(b) Corner seams

This type of seam technique helps to ensure that the corners of garments and various articles are stable, strong and neat. To make a corner seam follow these steps:

Step 1

Have the two pieces of fabric to be joined. Have their right sides facing up.

Step 2

Pin the right sides of the pieces together. The top edges should not meet: You should have about twice the seam allowance length overlapping the corner of the larger piece.

Step 3

Stitch until the apex point (i.e. where the seam allowances meet) using short stitches.

Step 4

Carefully, clip the seam allowance up to the stitching line (snip into just the bottom layer; the one with the angle in).

Step 5

Pin the other sides together. You can see how it looks from both sides. Pivot the angle at the apex point so the edges meet and pin.Stitch the other side until you reach the apex. Make sure not to stitch over the fabric “fold”; the two lines of stitches will meet at the corner.

Step 6

Press the seams to the outside. Here is the right side.

If you see a little plucker here, you can clip carefully a little bit closer to the stitches from the wrong side.

Activity 4.5

Practice doing the corner seams on pieces of clothes that your teacher will provide you.

(c) Curved seams

1. Draw the seam line you intend to seam on your fabric before sewing. Pin the fabric to be seamed together to prevent movement.

2. When sewing, focus on the area directly in front of your needle.

3. Shorten the stitch length. This is especially important when doing sharp curves.

4. When sewing convex curves onto concave ones, reduce the seam allowance before sewing.

Activity 4.6

Practice doing the curved seams as described above using different fabrics.

(d) Princess seams

Princess seams add a touch of elegance to any garment. They create graceful vertical lines that elongate the body. Princess seams are a variation of darts that are manipulated to make a fitted garment using shaped seams. Princess seams can be used in the bodice, skirt or a combination of both. Below is an example of how bodice parts can be made into a princess seam. We shall use a ‘C’ cup for the front part of a bodice.

1. Stay stitch all the seam allowances.

2. Pin your pattern pieces together up to the notches. Be sure to mark or cut your pattern notches – they are absolutely necessary to get the proper ease and shaping on a princess seam. Leave the pattern unpinned between the notches for now.

3. Cut snips in the seam allowance of the center bodice seam just between the notches to allow the fabric to lay fl at around the curve.

Note: Do not cut into your seam line.

4. Finish pinning your pattern pieces together between the notches. This part of the side bodice will now lay fl at because of the snips.

5. Stitch your seams together.

6. Press your seam allowance fl at with an iron.

7. Press your finished bodice open. You can use tailor’s ham to maintain the curved shape.

Activity 4.7

Using the procedures above, practice sewing princess seams on different clothes.

4.3 Choice of seams

Discussion corner

Talk to your friends about what you should consider when choosing seams. Write a report and present to the rest of the class.

The facts

The type of seam chosen for a given garment is determined by a number of factors. These factors are discussed below.

a) Type of fabric

This refers to whether the fabric is heavy or light. Heavy fabrics tend to be bulky and therefore the seam chosen should not make them more bulky. The suitable seam for such fabrics is the open-neatened seam.

b) Use of the garment

Daily wears or clothes which are frequently used are subjected to a lot of washing. These therefore need to be very hard wearing to withstand this constant washing. The seams which are suitable for such fabrics are the French seam and machine-fell seam as they are very strong.

c) Position of the seam on the garment

An overlaid seam is commonly used for fixing yokes in front of garments. They cannot however be used for joining the side seams of such garments. Therefore, some seams are more suitable in some positions than others.

d) Style of the garment

If the garments have yokes, an overlaid seam is best for fixing such yokes.

e) The desired effect

Some seams are both functional and decorative while others are only functional. The conspicuous seams tend to be decorative on the right side. They are therefore used if they are required to add a feature to the garment, to make them more appealing.

Discussion corner

From the knowledge of seams that you have acquired as at now, what do you think are some of the characteristics of a good seam?

Characteristics of a good seam

1. It should be of correct size.

2. It should have an even width.

3. It should be neatly stitched.

4. It should be well-pressed and fl at.

5. It should be strongly stitched for durability.

Remember the facts!

• A seam is a method of joining two pieces of fabrics together.

• Seams can either be conspicuous or inconspicuous.

• The common types of seams are open-neatened seam, machine-fell seam, overlaid seam and French seam. Others include seams on corners and curved edges.

• The factors which determine the choice of a seam include, type of garment, position of the seam, type of fabric, use of the fabric and the style of the garment.

• A well-made seam should be fl at, of correct size and, neatly and firmly done.

Test your competence 4

1. What is a seam?

2. Suggest the type of seam you would use on the following garments:

a) A jeans trouser. ___________

b) A dress made from a light weight fabric. ___________

c) A knitted sweater. ______________

d) A simple bag for carrying school books. ___________

3. Identify these seams. Where are they best used in a piece of cloth?:

4. Name and describe the types of seams on the clothes you are wearing.

5. What is the difference between a French seam and a princess seam?

6. Write down the steps you will follow when making a straight seam.

7. Why must a seam be well pressed and fl at?

8. Which of the following seams is not conspicuous?

A. French seam

B. Machine-fell seam

C. Overlaid seam

D. Basic seam

9. Write True or False to answer the following:

a) Open-neated seam is stronger than French seam. ______

b) French seam is the most suitable seam to use on fraying fabrics. ______

c) Machine-fell seam is inconspicuous. ______

d) Machine-fell seam is the best to use on woolen garment. ______

10. Write down what letters w, x, y and z represent in the following diagrams.

11. Match the following characteristics with the correct seam.

12. What would you advise a friend who does not want to pursue tailoring because he is a man?

13. What would you consider when choosing a seam?

14. Plan and execute a dress making project. In your plan you should include:

a) What you will require (resources)

b) Timelines to do various activities

c) A budget for the project

d) Precautions to take

e) How you plan to minimise wastage

Glossary

Conspicous seams: These are seams that can easily be seen on the right side of the work.

Crotcheting: The art of making a piece of needle work by looping thread with a hooked needle.

Edge stitch: This is the art of making a narrow turning and machine close to the folded edge when neatening raw edges.

Fabric: This term refers to a piece of cloth made from yarn or fibres by weaving, knitting or felling.

Fitting line: This is the line where final stitching is done. It is the same as seam-line. It is usually 1.5 cm from the cutting line.

Fray: This term refers to exposed threads that come off a cut raw edge of a piece of cloth.

Garment: This is any article made of clothing, for example a shirt or skirt.

Inconspicous seams: These are seams that cannot be seen on the right side of the work except in the joining line.

Neaten: This term refers to finishing or completing the raw edges of seams so that threads do not show at the cut edges.

Overlay: An overlay is the part of garment that comes on top when making an overlaid seam.

R.S: This is an abbreviation for the right side of work.

Raw edges: This refers to the cut edges of a fabric.

Seam allowance: This is a term that refers to the area between the cutting line and the fitting line. It is usually about 1.5 cm in diameter.

Seam line: It is also known as stitching line. It is the line where the final stitching is done.

Seam: This is a term that refers to a method of joining two or more pieces of fabrics together.

Stitching: This refers to a way of arranging threads together during knitting, sewing or crotcheting.

Trim: To trim is to reduce size of seam allowance by cutting it.

Underlay: This is the opposite of overlay. It is the part that lies below the overlay when making an overlaid seam.

W.S: This is an abbreviation for the wrong side of the fabric.